Start with the cloth beneath the wash.
Define whether the product calls for a rigid feel, a stretch component, a lighter construction, or a more substantial body. Fabric weight is only one part of that decision. Surface character, color, composition, movement, and how the fabric responds to the proposed finishing route all need to be considered.
A wash reference photographed on one denim does not guarantee the same appearance on another. Compare fabric candidates with the intended final result in mind. If the material changes during development, review the effect on fit and finishing rather than assuming the original sample remains a complete approval for the replacement.